Nirmal Purja and Nine Climbers Feared Missing After Broad Peak Avalanche in Pakistan

Ten mountaineers, including world-renowned climber Nirmal Purja, are feared missing following an avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain at 8,047 metres. The Nepal-born former Royal Marine was leading the international expedition when the avalanche struck at midday on Thursday, and no contact has been established with the team since the incident. Search and rescue efforts are anticipated to begin Friday morning, conditional upon weather conditions permitting helicopter operations in the Karakoram range.

The Expedition and Team Composition

Purja's climbing group comprised 10 members from multiple nations: an American, a Chinese national, an Omani, five Nepalis, and Purja himself serving as expedition leader. The team was attempting Broad Peak, a challenging high-altitude destination renowned for its technical difficulty and hazardous conditions. Broad Peak is classified within the "death zone" where the human body cannot acclimatise to oxygen levels, making rescue operations particularly complex.

Purja's Climbing Record

Purja gained international recognition for an extraordinary mountaineering achievement in 2019, when he climbed all 14 peaks exceeding 8,000 metres in just over six months. This accomplishment shattered the previous record of seven years and ten months, establishing him as one of the world's most accomplished high-altitude climbers. He holds six Guinness World Records for reaching multiple summits at record speeds. His climbing career began in 2012 when he walked to Mount Everest base camp and decided to climb the mountain rather than return home as planned.

Rescue Response and Current Status

Pakistani mountaineering authorities are coordinating with government bodies to mobilise available resources for the rescue mission. The Alpine Club of Pakistan stated it had maintained constant contact with authorities to ensure rapid response. Karrar Haidri, vice-president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, confirmed to the BBC that a helicopter rescue was being arranged for Friday morning, dependent on weather conditions clearing in the region. The club issued a statement expressing prayers for the climbers' safety and standing in solidarity with their families and the international mountaineering community during the crisis.

Background: Military Service and Adventure Career

Purja joined the British Army in 2003 and attained the rank of Royal Marine in 2009 before transitioning to full-time mountaineering. His military background and training in extreme environments have contributed to his reputation as a disciplined and experienced expedition leader. His achievement in conquering all 14 eight-thousanders has made him a prominent figure in global mountaineering circles.